Tuna Noodles

by Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten

This is a trompe l’oeil dish. There are no noodles, the tuna represents them. It makes a sensational sashimi-style first course.

Chili oil:
1 dried ancho chili, stemmed and seeded
1 1/2 dried chipotle peppers, stemmed and seeded
1 whole allspice berry
1 whole clove
3/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 small piece mace or nutmeg, cracked
1 whole star anise
1/2 cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup grape seed, corn or other neutral oil

Ginger marinade:
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup chopped kaffir lime leaves
1/4 cup lime juice
1 cup fresh chopped ginger (peeled)
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup champagne or other wine vinegar
1/2 cup soy sauce

Tuna:
1 12-ounce (375-gram) piece sushi-grade tuna (4-inch square, 1-inch thick)
Salt to taste
1 fresh red Thai chili, seeded and minced
2 shallots, minced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Avocado:
1 ripe avocado, seeded, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon lime juice

Radishes:
4 small bunches red radishes, stemmed, scrubbed and cut into ¼-inch slices
1/2 small daikon radish, stemmed, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices
1/2 small icicle radish, stemmed, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices

Combine ancho, chipotle, allspice, clove, fennel, mace, anise and cinnamon in a large dry skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and toasted, about 2 minutes. Transfer toasted ingredients to a blender or spice grinder, add salt and blend until finely ground.

Transfer spice mixture to a small saucepan, add grape seed oil and warm over medium-low heat until very warm, then remove from the heat and cool completely. Strain oil through a fine mesh sieve and set aside at room temperature to use immediately, or cover and refrigerate until needed.

Combine sugar, lime leaves and lime juice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Strain the lime syrup through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

Place ginger in the bowl of a blender and blend, adding olive oil in a slow, steady stream through the feed tube, until mixture becomes a smooth purée. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in champagne vinegar, soy sauce and reserved lime syrup. Set aside. Use a sharp knife to cut tuna, with the grain, into thin ribbons. Season lightly with salt, then gently toss with chili, shallots and 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Season avocado lightly with salt, then toss gently with lime juice and remaining 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Season radishes lightly with salt, then toss gently with half of reserved chili oil.

Divide avocado among four serving bowls and decoratively arrange half the radish slices, then half the tuna strands on top. Stack the remaining radishes and tuna on top, and spoon the ginger marinade around the dish and drizzle the remaining chili oil all around.

Wine pairing by Beppi Crosariol:

Bold in conception and flavour yet delicate in weight, this dish would be best matched with a cold premium sake (Japanese rice wine) such as a junmai or ginjo style. (Remember to serve it chilled, not heated as is done with inferior, mass-produced sakes.) On the grape-wine front, try a bold yet delicate New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Another good choice would be a dry white from Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s home region of Alsace, such as pinot gris or gewürztraminer.